Fall in Love with Miyagi This Summer

Cradled between the peaks of Mt. Katta, Mt. Kumano and Mt. Goshiki lies Okama, a volcanic crater lake named for its resemblance to a traditional Japanese cooking pot.

Rich in sulfur and other minerals, the lake shifts in color with the angle of the sunlight, movement of the clouds and changes in water temperature, appearing at times deep green, emerald, blue or even milky white. This ever-changing palette has earned Okama another name: the “Five-Colored Lake.”

At the 1,758-meter summit of Mt. Katta stands Zao Kattamine Shrine’s Okumiya, or inner sanctuary. A wooden torii rises before the shrine, creating a distinctive scene against the mountain’s rugged, rocky terrain.

Climb to the shrine and the landscape opens out before you, with sweeping views over the waters of Okama and the vast volcanic terrain beyond.

A popular spot in Shiroishi, Shiroishi Umen Tsurigane-an retains the charm of a traditional Japanese house, with an atmosphere that evokes the town’s long history.

The signature Three-Flavored Umen comes with a selection of dipping sauces, including sesame, walnut and bonito, each bringing out a different side of the light, silky noodles.

Just 400 meters from the coast, the school building remains much as it was after the tsunami of March 2011, preserving the physical traces of the Great East Japan Earthquake and the story of the evacuation that unfolded here.

As the tsunami approached, the principal made the swift decision to lead the school’s pupils and staff, together with local residents, into an attic space above the rooftop. Ninety people took shelter there, spending a long and uncertain night above the rising waters. All survived.

Inside the school today, traces left by the tsunami can still be seen, alongside the spaces where people sheltered that night.

The hotel’s long history is reflected in its understated sense of elegance. A soaring atrium gives the lobby a refined, classic feel, while the guest rooms offer more space to settle in than the average business hotel. An underground parking garage also makes it a convenient choice for those traveling by car.

Come morning, the focus turns to Miyagi at the generous breakfast buffet. Local rice is served alongside regional favorites such as sasa-kamaboko fish cakes and zunda mochi, offering one more taste of the prefecture before the next day’s journey begins.

There is plenty more to discover in southern Miyagi. If time allows, or you simply want to shape the journey around your own interests, consider venturing a little further to some of the distinctive spots scattered across the region. With a car and a little extra time, there is plenty here to make the detour worthwhile.

Kakuda is home to the JAXA Kakuda Space Center, where research and development focuses on liquid-fuel rocket engines—the very “heart” of a rocket. It is a connection that has earned Kakuda its nickname, the “City of Space.”

Celebrating this distinctive side of the city is Space Tower & Cosmo House, a space-themed attraction that opened in 1997. A full-scale, 49-meter model of an H-II rocket towers over the grounds, while a glass-walled elevator whisks visitors up the 44.9-meter Space Tower. From the observation deck, a 360-degree panorama stretches across the city of Kakuda.

Kanahebisui Shrine is one of Miyagi’s best-known places to pray for wealth, good fortune in business and success. Dedicated to a water deity, the shrine has long drawn visitors hoping for a little extra luck on their side.

Look around the grounds and you will spot jamonseki, stones naturally patterned with markings that resemble snakes. The custom is to choose whichever stone catches your eye, then gently brush your wallet against it while making a wish for prosperity.

After visiting the shrine, stop by Sando Terrace, a recent addition to its outer grounds. Simple, modern wooden architecture blends into a leafy garden, while the stylish café serves a playful selection of food and drinks inspired by the shrine’s white snake motif.

Designed by renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, Minamisanriku Sun Sun Shopping Village makes generous use of locally grown Minamisanriku cedar. Warm timber runs throughout the complex, allowing the architecture to sit naturally among the mountains and sea that surround it.

Developed as an important hub for the town’s recovery following the Great East Japan Earthquake, the village brings together fishmongers, souvenir shops and restaurants serving local specialties.

Wander between the shops, stop for fresh seafood or browse products from around the region, and you will also encounter a coastal town that has steadily regained its energy in the years since the disaster.

At Sushi Benkei, a popular spot for Kirakira-don, summer brings the limited-quantity Kirakira Uni-don. The bowl is generously topped with fresh seasonal sea urchin, prized for its rich sweetness and brilliant golden color.

Piled high over rice, the glistening uni resembles a bowl filled with jewels from the sea—a particularly indulgent taste of summer in Minamisanriku.

With a history stretching back more than a thousand years, Naruko Onsen has long been one of Japan’s best-known destinations for toji, the tradition of staying at a hot spring for rest and recuperation.

But there is more to Naruko than its waters. The town is also the birthplace of Naruko kokeshi, one of Japan’s traditional styles of wooden dolls. Wander through the streets and traces of that heritage appear everywhere, from colorful kokeshi to workshops where generations of woodturners have kept the craft alive, all set against a nostalgic townscape with echoes of the Showa era.

Free footbaths and hand baths dotted around town make it easy to pause along the way, soak for a while and experience Naruko’s hot spring culture for yourself.

Surrounded by the mountains of Naruko, Yumoto Kissho is a traditional Japanese-style ryokan shaped by the town’s thousand-year hot spring heritage and warm hospitality.

After changing into one of the colorful yukata, the private open-air baths offer a quiet place to unwind. Fed directly from the natural spring and free for guests to use, they offer the rare luxury of having the warm, soothing waters entirely to yourself.

Dinner brings the flavors of Miyagi to the table, with dishes showcasing seasonal ingredients from across the prefecture. As night settles over the mountains, the rising steam and stillness of the hot spring town create just the setting to slow down, settle in and enjoy Naruko at its most peaceful.

If time allows, or you simply want to shape the journey around your own interests, consider venturing a little further to some of the distinctive spots scattered along this stretch of coast. Here, dramatic natural landscapes meet contemporary art, with plenty more to discover if you have a little extra time to explore.

On the Kesennuma coast, Ogama Hanzo is one of the most dramatic seascapes in Sanriku Fukko National Park. Waves crash against sheer cliffs in clouds of white spray, said to resemble water boiling in a great cauldron—the image that gave Ogama its name.

Most striking of all is Oreishi, a 16-meter marble pillar rising from the sea. Its name, meaning “Broken Rock,” is said to date from the great tsunami of 1896, when the top of the pillar was snapped away.

More than a century and several major earthquakes later, Oreishi still stands above the waves, a striking reminder of both the immense power of nature and its enduring resilience.

Created by sculptor Kohei Nawa, this enormous white deer stands quietly by the sea on Ishinomaki’s Oshika Peninsula. Its graceful white form gazes out across the water, an imposing yet strangely wistful presence that has become one of the landmarks of Ishinomaki’s art festival.

Follow the coastline to Osuzaki Lighthouse, standing at the eastern edge of the sea off Ogatsu.

Perched high on the cliffs, the gleaming white lighthouse occupies a quiet spot far from the busier tourist trail. From here, the view opens out across the vast Pacific, stretching seemingly without end toward the horizon.

Rising more than 100 meters above the valley, Naruko Dam was the first arch concrete dam of its scale in Japan to be built entirely by Japanese engineers, without the assistance of overseas specialists.

Visit in summer and the surrounding mountains are blanketed in brilliant green, creating a dramatic backdrop to the vast reservoir. Cool breezes sweep through the valley, offering a welcome escape from the summer heat.

If you are exploring Naruko Onsen, make the short detour to the dam and spend a little time taking in the tranquil scenery before continuing your journey.

The activity takes place at café gutto, a characterful spot in the heart of Naruko Onsen where the town’s craft traditions sit comfortably alongside a contemporary café setting.

Along with the decorating experience, the café serves light meals and coffee, with some dishes presented on tableware created by designers with close ties to Naruko Onsen. It is an easy place to linger for a while, with local craftsmanship woven naturally into the experience.

The Sendai Tanabata Festival is one of Japan’s best-known Tanabata celebrations and one of the Three Great Festivals of Tohoku.

Each year from August 6 to 8, thousands of enormous Tanabata decorations are suspended from bamboo poles throughout the shopping arcades of central Sendai. Long, vivid streamers and intricate paper ornaments sway in the breeze, transforming the streets into seemingly endless tunnels of color. Strolling beneath them is one of the most memorable ways to experience summer in Sendai.

If time allows, or you would like to make a little more of your third day on the road, consider venturing to some of the lesser-known spots around Naruko and Osaki. With a little extra time to explore, there are still plenty of fascinating places to discover.

Just outside Naruko Onsen lies Katanuma, a rare crater lake known for its highly acidic waters. Depending on the weather, light and conditions in the lake, its waters shift between dreamlike shades of emerald green and cobalt blue.

Rent a boat from the lakeside rest house to take in the scenery from the water, or follow the roughly 1.3-kilometer walking trail around the lake for views from every angle.

In Iwadeyama, the Kankaku Museum is one of Japan’s few interactive museums built around sensory perception. Rather than simply viewing art from a distance, visitors are encouraged to engage with the exhibits—touching, listening and experiencing the works with the whole body.

The museum is divided into two main areas, the Physical Sensation Space and Meditation Space, where light, sound, scent and different materials come together in a series of immersive installations. In one darkened room, pressing works mounted on the wall makes them glow blue, while movements of the hands can be used to shift sounds through the space. Elsewhere, mirrors, water and light create dreamlike environments that feel removed from the world outside.

It is an experience designed to spark curiosity, whether for children eager to explore or adults happy to leave the everyday behind for a while and rediscover a little of their own sense of wonder.